Of all the dirt roads in the middle of nowhere...

Saturday - July 12 

Camped on the side of the road 30 miles from
any gas station

We are going to start with the weirdest thing that has every happened in all of camping experiences in the RV.   How is it that we started out camping here on a panoramic mesa 30 miles northwest of Taos, NM (or any other place with a gas station) and ended up in the Taos Walmart parking lot?

We had had a busy day starting off with mountain biking and then a visit to the Great Sand Dunes National Park near Alamosa, CO.  Our plan was to camp in the mountains between Tres Piedres and Tierra Amarilla, NM.  But, by my mistake, we were running low on gas (diesel) in the RV when we got to Tres Piedres.

We had passed some signs for BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land coming into Tres Piedres, so we turned around and went back to a gravel road that had a sign that said that camping was allowed in the area.  We only drove about half a mile off the highway and found a dirt road off the gravel road leading to an old abandoned ranch house and corral.  We could see that a single truck had been down the road in the last  few days, but not much other sign of traffic.  It was already after 6 PM so we wiggled the RV into the closest thing to a level spot next to the road, almost blocking the dirt driveway and proceeded to make camp.  I was a little worried about getting the RV too far from the gravel road with the storms coming.  The RV is not much of an off-road machine.

There is not a functioning gas station within
30 miles of where we are camped... at party central

All went well... we grilled vegetables and pork loin for dinner as the storm approached.  Luckily the storm turned south and we only got a few sprinkles.  Beth and Nicholas set up a game of Catan and Nicholas whipped us again!... It was 10 PM, but we thought we would get in another game since this was to be our last night before heading into Albuquerque.  Beth looked up and saw headlights coming down the road, the first we had seen all night... not just 1 set, but 2, 3, 4, .... 5, 6 sets of head lights.  Then they turned right in front of the RV, barely clearing our front bumper and headed down the dirt driveway, one right after another.

Now it is Saturday night, but how is it that within a county with a population density of 1.4 people per square mile, 3 miles from the nearest thing called a town with a post office, we end up parking where the locals come to party on Saturday night???

Now this is northern New Mexico, where there are still a number of folks that think if you don't have relatives back to the conquistadors with direct ties to a Spanish land grant, that you are an interloper.  It was clear that with 6 cars and who knows how many per car, we were clearly out numbered... And discretion clearly being the better part of valor, we pulled chocks and headed to Taos.  And at 11PM, where better to camp than the Taos Walmart parking lot! ... and we weren't the first to be camping there either.  At least 5 other vehicles had spots staked out, but we were pretty sure they were just there for a place to park over night.

Mountain biking on a logging road.

Otherwise, this had been a really nice day.  From our camping spot in the BLM land south of Buena Vista we dropped the mountain bikes.  We first followed some cow paths near our camp site, then riding overland  in the pine meadow until we were back to the dirt road heading into the mountains.  We followed the dirt road until we found a logging road heading higher up the mountain and followed it for a while.  Nothing too difficult for a novice mountain biker or a tandem that doesn't make tight turns of any kind, but it was good to be out on the mountain on a beautiful day.  We headed back to camp for a shower and some lunch, then on down the road.

We kept waiting for one of the guys at the top to try to
sand surf down this gigantic dune on his "sand board"

We headed for Great Sand Dunes National Park about 20 miles northwest of Alamosa, CO.  It is really unusual to see 700 foot high sand dunes at the base of the Sangre de Cristo mountains at the eastern edge of a huge mountain valley (about 40 miles across the valley in places).  You can go to the National Park Service website if you really want to hear the theories of how they formed.  Needless to say they are a long way from any ocean beach at 8000' in elevation and very impressive.


Sunday, July 13 - Back Home
After our short night in the Taos Walmart parking lot, we drove a short way out of Taos on highway 518, also known as the "high road to Taos" and a favorite for cycling toward Santa Fe.  Beth and I hopped on the tandem and road over the first pass (1600' of climbing in the first 10 miles) to the junction of highway 75 and then Nicholas hopped on his single to ride on to Chimayo.  The ride from Penasco to Truchas is 20 miles of steep hills with 2000' of climbing.  I had forgotten how tough this ride can be.  At least the last 10 miles from Truchas to Chimayo is a screaming down hill with good road and a lot of fun.

After we packed up the bikes, we headed to Santa Fe to find somewhere that Nicholas could watch the end of the World Cup finals between Argentina and Germany.  We ended up at the 2nd Street Pub.  The place was packed with people watching the finals. Nicholas had to stand along the wall to see the game and was a little disappointed when Germany won in overtime, but at least he got to see the finale.

Then it was back in the RV for the short 50 mile drive back to Corrales and home.  While we didn't get to do a lot of what we had planned or hoped to do this summer, but we still had some good times, got in some nice rides, saw some new sights and checked off a couple of more state capitals.

Moose, Mountain Goats, Mt Evans and Motor Campgrounds

Wednesday, July 9
We took it pretty easy on Wednesday, mostly hanging around the RV park.  We did drop the dirt road tandem and the mountain bike for a very short ride, but almost everything around Grand Lake was a big climb and we were saving our legs for Thursday.  So we had a marathon round of Catan (our favorite board game) with Nicholas getting back into his previous form of being the most frequent winner.

Thursday, July 10.... Mt Evans climb

There's a moose among us!

We were up early to make the 2 hour drive to Mt. Evans, but as I was going out to unhook the water and power, a neighbor in the campground excitedly told me there was a bull moose just 2 campsites over from us.  Seeing a bull moose has been on Beth's list of things to see for a while, so I ran back inside to get her.  The people with the campsite with the best view could have charged $10 a head and I don't think anybody would have blinked, but they were very nice and let us come take a closeup look at "Bullwinkle" in real life... that is quite a set of antlers he has!

Nicholas after climbing Mt Evans
(the RV is the white dot along the road at the left edge
of the picture... Beth is waving!)

The drive to Mt Evans took us through Winter Park ski area and then over the mountains to Idaho Springs on I-70.  The actual race up Mt Evans is July 19 and starts in Idaho Springs (elevation 7800'), so there were plenty of bikes out riding the 28+ miles.  We chose to ride from Echo Lake which is the mid-point of the total race climb.  From this point, you have 14.4 miles and 3500' of climbing to reach the summit at 14,100 ft above sea level.  I figured that since Nicholas has only been riding with us a few days and this is the highest altitude ride in the country, I would cut him slack.  I didn't need to worry about Nicholas... he was off and of out sight most of the time after the first mile.  He reached the summit in just a little over 1.5 hours, so roughly 10 mph up the climb.  He did get passed by a couple of local racers, so he got a little perspective as to how fast some people can make that climb.  But I am really impressed at how fast he climbs with very little saddle time, even at these high altitude.  Oh to be young and in great shape!

Before we left the top of Mt Evans, I had to get a few shots of the mountain goats that were grazing along side the road.  That's another animal that is on Beth's list, but there was no way she was driving the RV up the last 5 miles of twisting, narrow, poorly paved, no guard rail, road to see them.  They had barely let the her in the park with the RV in the first place and had literally measured the RV with a tape measure to make sure it was less than 30' long including the bikes (28', so no  problem).

Nicholas and I rode back down to the park entrance where we met up with Beth for some lunch and on to find a place to camp near Golden, CO.  Beth had called an RV park in Golden, but they didn't take reservations.  You had to call after 7AM to get your name on a list and then they would call you back after 11AM to tell you if you had a spot or not.  Unfortunately (or maybe not), we didn't get a spot there, but we did stumble across, Chief Hosa campground which is run by the City of Denver Parks.  This is the oldest RV campground in the country (or so they claim).  The park was opened to "motor" camping around 1913.  So I guess now we can strike that off the list.... "stay in the oldest RV park in the country".  (I'm not sure that was ever on the list, but we might as well take credit for it.)

We met Beth's sister, Barbara and husband, Jerry, who live in Boulder.  They drove down to meet us for pizza in Golden.  We had some catching up to do since their daughter, Maureen (Mo) is getting married next month and Jerry retired from GM last year and recently took a new job.  We had a good visit and then headed back to the campground.

Friday, July 11... an odd day
We didn't have a plan for Friday, but that isn't unusual for this trip.  We decided to make a run to Walmart and then head to Fairplay, CO, where we would drop the tandem and go for about a 30 mile ride.  When we got to Fairplay, there were thunderstorms all around, so we decided to just drive on toward Buena Vista, CO on highway 285.  We were within 8 miles of Buena Vista, when we hit a giant traffic backup.  I suspected that it was construction, but after sitting for several minutes, not moving and no traffic coming toward us, we decided it was more likely a wreck.  After sitting for quite a while, I hopped on my road bike and set off to find the front of the line.  Unfortunately there had been a fatal accident 3 miles up ahead.  Just as I reached the front of the line, they opened one lane of traffic to start to untangle the giant, Friday afternoon, heading for the mountains traffic jam.  Of course, all the way back I was accosted with questions.  I reported they had just opened up some traffic and their distance to the front of the line.  I felt a little like Paul Revere... The untangle took quite a while with only one lane of traffic open at a time.  Moving 20 cars at a time...

After spending more than 2 1/2 hours tied up in the traffic to go six miles and then hit construction (one lane bridge fix), we decided to find a campground near by.  When we finally got to a forest service campground, the host told us every spot in any campground nearby was fully booked for the weekend. As were we looping the campground to exit, he flagged us down and gave us directions to a BLM land area nearby that has free open camping in pull-offs along the road. We followed his directions and found a great spot just inside the BLM land.  So thanks to the campground host... they are usually a wealth of information and really nice folks.

Back on the road for a while

Saturday, July 5th - Plan X - Nebraska, Wyoming and then into Colorado

Nicholas "channeling" Lincoln at the
Nebraska state capital

It has been a while since our last post.  We turned right from Livingston, MT and made it Custer SD.  We took a day to take in a few of the sights such as Mt. Rushmore, the Crazy Horse mountain sculpture and a dirt road bike ride through Custer State Park.  Then we headed east by south-east to central MO.

We spent a week in the area visiting Ted's mom and dad several times along with our other relatives.  Given our best assessment of the Ted's mom's situation, we decided we would take a meandering trip back to NM with our nephew.  Ted and Nicholas will return to MO in mid-July, or at least that is the current thought.

Without much of a real plan, we left Jefferson City, Mo around 10:30 and headed  west by northwest toward Nebraska. We drove to Lincoln to see the capital.   After a very quick look around (we arrived 4 minutes before closing) we continued west to Grande Island and Hall County Park for the night - a very nice county run park and campground.  Being Saturday of a holiday weekend we were glad to get the last RV spot and have the electricity to run the air conditioner all night since it was hot and muggy.

Sunday, July 6th - Bean "ear"... done swat.

Corn and more corn in the plains of Nebraska

Now that we have our driver back, we were up early to get a cooler start to biking.  As with last summer we planned to start off and have Nicholas follow us after his early morning run.  As we headed out of the park we saw a pair of wild turkeys with 8 to 10 babies.  What a nice way to start the morning.  Then it was nothing but flat, flat, hot, humid riding with only corn and soy bean fields.  We tried to break the monotony with "corny" jokes.  We rode the tandem for almost 40 miles and just before stopping, Beth scored a Nebraska license plate along the side the road!  Then Ted switched to the single and rode another 14 with Nicholas. Nicholas continued on alone for another 16.   Total riding for the day:   Nicholas 30.1, Beth 39.8 and Ted 53 miles.  We can officially check off Nebraska from our list of states where we have ridden the bike... July was NOT the best choice, but it is done.

If you have ever wondered where the Cabela's flagship store and corporate headquarters are located, we can answer that question for you.... Sydney, NE.  Yes, Sydney, NE, population 6800 is the headquarters for outdoor retailing giant, Cabela's, with sales over $2B/year.  Not quite Walmart and Bentonville, AR, but not bad for a little town in the middle of nowhere in western Nebraska.

After riding and lunch, it was back into the RV for the drive to Cheyenne, WY.  We stopped at WYO RV

Beth adds to the license plate collection

park about 12 miles east of Cheyenne for the night.

Monday, July 7th - Another day, another state capital
We got in another early morning 20 mile "out-and-back" ride while Nicholas did his run.  The ride was one we had looked for when we were riding across Kansas last summer.  We rode west toward Cheyenne into a pretty stiff head wind and on the return ride it was clear sailing at 30 mph with the tail wind from the west. That was the wind I had planned on last summer, but never materialized in Kansas.

Then it was on to the state capital in Cheyenne for a quick visit.  Between the trip last summer and this week, we have hit OR, ID, MT, CO, WY and NE.  Nicholas was adding them up the other day to see how many he have left to visit.  I think he has visited 15, so it will take a few more summers to complete that project. He really needs a trip to the east coast...

On the way to Rocky Mt. National Park west of Loveland, CO, we took care of mailing packages (Ted took off with Beth's mom's car keys), propane, groceries and gassing up before we headed into the mountains.  We checked into our campsite at Glacier Basin inside the national park, then decided we would ride back into Estes Park for dinner.  It was only 9 miles back to town, but it meant an 1800' climb back to our campsite.  Amazingly enough the ride back went pretty fast and everybody felt pretty good... the legs are starting to get back into shape!

Tuesday, July 8th - Back in the mountains and cool nights

Nicholas, Ted and Beth at Bear Lake

We had planned to do a quick ride to the end of the Bear Lake road, only 4 miles and about 800' of climbing and then head for the highest continuously paved section of road in the country, Highway 34 from Estes Park to Grand Lake, CO.  However, the mountains were socked in, so we did our short ride and then hiked to Mills Lake.  The clouds broke during our hike and the lake was gorgeous.  Then back to the RV and the drive to Grand Lake over Hwy 34.  The views along this road are spectacular as you ride the ridge of the mountain for about 10 miles at about 12,000'.  Beth and I rode this 2 years ago on the tandem, part of it in a hail storm.  My eyes were pretty well fixed on the road which has quite a few shear drops and no guard rails.  So it was nice to see it again!

We spent the night in an RV park in Grand Lake and plan to hang out here today with a short bike ride to keep the legs loose.  Tomorrow we plan to drive to Mt Evans, just west of Denver where Nicholas and Ted will tackle the highest paved road in North America, 14,265' above sea level.  We'll start at the Mt Evans National Wilderness Area road entrance and ride to the top from there... 14.4 miles and 3554' of climbing. Just like climbing Sandia Crest in ABQ, only 3500' higher from start to finish!

Mills Lake - Rocky Mountain National Park

A new state every day...

Sunday, June 22 (North of Vernal, Utah)
We are continuing our ramble toward Canada camping in a new state every day so far...

Flaming Gorge Reservoir dam

Today started with a short ride from our mountain top camp site at Longbow NFS CG.  Beth has not done much riding since she cracked her kneecap in December.  Riding a third consecutive day with a lack of calluses in key spots is beginning to be "felt".   Today's ride was more about building saddle time than going long distances.  Plus, if we rode too far in either direction it was going to be a long, steep climb back to the RV.  15 miles and 1000' of climbing was enough.

As we continued north we drove through Flaming Gorge Recreation Area .  A large dam blocks the Green River creating a large reservoir.  The gorge is quite impressive.  Then on into Wyoming. We stopped for gas and lunch in Rock Springs and groceries in Pinedale. Our final destiatnion for the day was Hoback campground along the Hoback river.  Hoback is about 30 miles south of Jackson, Wyoming and the Jackson Hole area.  Another very nice, national forest campground, although a little primate, it had a good selection level parking sites for the RV.  We appreciate the conforts of the RV, especially Beth.  Having been in the Jackson Hole/Yellowstone area the last 2 summers, finding a camping spot can be a real challenge.  So finding a $15/night camping spot is a real bargain.

Monday, June 23

The Teton's are always impressive and today was no exception.  We really enjoyed our 44 miles loop around the park.  We rode through the park 2 years ago from south to north.  This time riding north to south provided a different perspective.  The views were exceptional, the weather fantastic and the drivers courteous.  We saw Bison, Antelope and Deer along the way.   Grand Teton National Park and Jackson, WY are linked by a bike path so from Moose, WY to Jenny Lake we were on a designated pathway.   It's a nice way to see the park and would be manageable for the less experienced rider or families as it's only a 14 mile round trip ride.  We saw a few families on the path, but it would be nice to see more bicycles and fewer cars in the national parks.  Unfortunately most are not set up for bikes with little shoulders on the roads plus they charge a bike $12 per person! Not very friendly to us low carbon foot-print types riding a bicycle and driving our diesel RV.  That makes this bike path exceptionally nice.

The Grand Tetons ... and the flowers were great as well.

After our ride it was into the RV and onto Yellowstone National Park.  Having been to the park the last two summers, we decided to skip the Old Faithful area (and the accompanying zoo that surrounds it) and travel up the east side of the grand loop.   This took us out of most of the heavy traffic and provided new scenery.   The Yellowstone river is quite impressive and you still get to see quite a few bubbling hot springs (and smell the sulfer).   The Yellowstone River is the largest un-dammed river in the continental US.

Bision seem to be plentiful this season especially in the eastern side of the park.  And of course most people seem to think they are the only ones in the park.  As we approached one area, an RV crossed the road directly in front of us, barely go the tires off the road, the side door is flies open and three people jump out into the road to take a picture.  Not that the Bison seem to be moving away in any big hurry.  Now we are not the largest RV but we are not small, nor are we quiet.  We barely got stopped in time to avoid the 3 people jumping from the

Bison enjoying a hot mud bath... people pay a lot of
money for this treatment at a spa

RV or removing their door.   Another time, we ended up stopped in the middle of the road behind about 5 cars.  Each car pulled up to the two Bison standing by the road, came to a complete stop, rolled down their window and took pictures.  There was a pullout for cars just 100 yards down the road.   I'm not sure why wildlife in national parks is so much more interesting and by this point we had probably seen 1000 bison.   Mammoth Hot Springs is just inside the North Entrance and is again a driver's nightmare.  It seems you get to leave your common sense at the gate of a national park.

But sometimes there is justice... just after we entered the south entrance of Yellowstone we were passed by a blue Toyota going about 70 mph.  The speed limit in Yellowstone is 45mph at it's highest and we were going about 50 at the time.  A few minutes later we were looking for a pullout to take a quick

rest and saw one up the road with our friend in the blue Toyota parked in it.  We pulled in behind them and planned to pull forward in the pullout when they left since we were barely off the road.  They jumped back in their car after their quick picture of the scenery, but seemed to be having a problem.  I sat and watched for a couple of minutes as I saw the door open and close, the doors lock and unlock, but no progress toward moving.  Finally the driver jumps out and starts walking back toward us.  I had a pretty good guess what his problem was... he couldn't get the steering wheel to unlock to start the rental car.  He was from an asian country, but spoke fair English.  I said I thought I could help him out since we had owned a Toyota 4Runner and knew the steering wheel sometimes needs to be turned to release the lock to allow you to start the car.  So I jumped in and got him going... my good deed for the day, but I did get a couple of good chuckles at his expense while I watched him struggle to start the car.

On another note:
Once we were outside of the park, cell phone and internet service resumed.  We stopped to listen to messages and Ted took the opportunity to call Mike, his brother.   Unfortunately the news was not good.  Ted's mom had been diagnosed with Stage 4 Pancreatic cancer two weeks ago.  It is progressing fast and although he had been back to visit her last week before we started the trip, we have decided that we need to head back to Missouri again.   So we will be making a right turn and heading east.   Chances are we will not be posting again.   We will start a new post when we are able to plan another adventure... or resume this one sometime in the future.

Rambling through Colorado and into Utah

Friday - 6/20

Oil well near Navajo lake. Durango, CO is at the base
 of the San Juan Mts in the background 

We are trying to get in a bike ride before we hit the road every day.  This morning's ride took us from the Navajo Lake campground almost to the Colorado border.  31 miles and 2600 feet of climbing made for a challenging start to the day.

Sometimes we forget to write about our home state.  Navajo Lake is in San Juan county near Farmington in the NW corner of the state.  The major industry in this area is oil and natural gas.  The terrain is rugged with a lot of narrow, winding, hilly roads.  So on our ride we were passed by a plethora of white trucks with 12'-15' tall flexible rods with orange flags mounted to the cab so they can be seen as they top the hills.  The scenery along Hwy 511 is frequently broken by gas wells, collection tanks and natural gas powered generators.

The San Juan river flows from the Navajo Lake dam and is a mecca for fly fisherman.  The San Juan Quality Waters is a catch and release only fishing area which is well known within NM and the US.  Too bad we don't fish!

Molass Pass above Silverton, CO

We packed up the RV and headed north.  We made what we hoped would be a quick stop at the Durango Walmart, which ended up being about an hour as we hunted for just a few items we forgot to pack.  After gassing up the RV, we headed north to Silverton and Ouray.  A lot of up and down, twists and turns over 3 major mountain passes.  I was really glad when when were back on some relatively straight highway near Montrose. Our stop for the night was in Olathe, CO.  Olathe is known for it's sweet corn.  We stayed at a great RV Park, Uncompahgre River RV Park.  If you know how to pronounce that, let us know!

Saturday - 6/21

Farm land near Olathe, CO

Again up for an early morning ride from Olathe, over the mesa and through farm land.  Most of the ride was pleasant but we did pass a Foster Farms chicken farm and a fairly large dairy, so the smell was a little ripe along those stretches.  31 miles and  1000 feet of climbing.

As we drove north we continued our quest for local diners and stopped at Randy's Southside Diner for lunch in Grand Junction.  The food and service were good and doing our part to help the local economy.  After lunch, we motored on to Dinasour National Monument Visitors Center near Vernal, UT.  We had visited here back in 1989 with the boys when we moved to Oregon (for 15 months, 3 days, 8 hours and 27 minutes, but who was counting).  Nothing has changed!  Dinosaurs remain a big draw for kids of all ages.

Vistors Center is in the backgound

Tonight we are at  Lodgepole campground in the national forest between Vernal and Manila UT.   The temperature atop the mountain is much cooler and should make for great sleeping.  It's a very nice campground and amazingly has 4G cell service while being in the middle of nowhere!

We are off again... Summer 2014, June 19

Thursday, 6/19/2014

We are preparing for another adventure this summer.  Unlike last year with a day-by-day agenda to ride across the country, this trip is more of a rambling adventure without a specific itinerary.  We have places we want to visit and explore but no timelines except one hard date...  

Heading out again... Tandem sculpture in the background
(If you would like to be our neighbor, the house across the
street is for sale... $1.8M... just slightly larger than ours)

A fully supported, guided bicycle trip awaits us June 29^th through July 4^th in the Canadian side of Glacier National Park. We will travel between Jasper and Banff, Alberta Canada with Rocky Mountain Bicycle Tours.   This is a trip Beth has wanted to take for quite a while. Since this is a fully supported trip, we'll be parking the RV in Banff National Park Campground for a week while we are on the tour.

In the meantime, we will be meandering our way to Banff a few hundred miles at a time.  We'll be working in rides pretty much on a daily basis trying to get into better shape.  We haven't had a lot of time for cycling over the last few weeks.  We are currently camped at Navajo State park in northwestern New Mexico.  We plan to head up the western side of Colorado and pretty much figure out our next destination as we go along.

After we are done with the bike tour we'll be picking up our nephew, Nicholas, on July 5th at the airport in Calgary and again using him as the RV driver and SAG for a month.   The tentative plan is to travel south and east to explore Montana, North Dakota and South Dakota.  We will be following some of the Lewis and Clark Trail and venturing into the badlands.  Eventually we will end up in Missouri, as Nicholas has to be back for cross country training by August 5^th.  

Since we plan to ride all types of terrain on this trip, we have quite the assortment of bikes on the RV this year.  It is quite the bike rack with 2 tandems (road and dirt), a mountain bike and 2 road bikes.  My guess is it weighs over 200 pounds sitting on the hitch.  Hopefully it all hangs together.

"A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving."

--Lao Tzu