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Sunrise in a smokey haze |
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| The sun is just an orange ball in the sky |
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| Me, Jocelyn, Glenn and Myles at the Glenside Cafe |
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| Route as of July 18 in Rochester Hills, MI |
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Sunrise in a smokey haze |
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| The sun is just an orange ball in the sky |
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| Me, Jocelyn, Glenn and Myles at the Glenside Cafe |
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| Route as of July 18 in Rochester Hills, MI |
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| Minneapolis skyline between showers as we left town |
We have now hit some seriously warm, muggy weather this week as we made our way across Wisconsin. There were a couple of days that I literally took my sopping wet shirt off and rang the sweat out of it. Our first night of camping after leaving Minneapolis was at Mr Sippi Campground right on the Mississippi. It was an OK campground with a bar. Right after we arrived there was a serious downpour. Several people had tried to get their tents up before it hit and failed. I had looked at the radar view on the phone and saw it was probably better to wait, so several of us took shelter in the bar to wait out the storm.
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| Riding the Rail-to-Trails across Wisconsin |
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| Sheri taking advantage of a rest stop water bottle shower to cool off |
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| Route completed as of July 14 |
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| First experience with Minnesota Nice at the City Hall Bar in Minneota, MN |
We had barely crossed the Minnesota border when we had our first experience with Minnesota Nice. Our camping spot for the night was the city park in Minneota, MN. We weren't overly thrilled with the choice since it was a hot muggy day and there were limited facilities at the city park. The closest shower was at the town pool about a half mile from the campground.
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| Our group with one of the owners of the City Hall Bar before he left for the lake. |
While we were at the bar, I went outside and was on the phone ordering a new bike from a bike shop in Minneapolis (I'll get to that minute) when a guy came down the street and wanted to know what was the story with all the bikes in front of the bar. His name was Larry and sold insurance plus seemed to the town's unofficial welcomer. He came into the bar and talked to all of us to get the full story and he told us about the town. Later, he came by the campsite and talked to a few more of us and then offered to bring sticky buns for breakfast the next morning. True to his word at 7AM, Larry walked into the campground with two pans of sticky buns. Man, what an introduction to Minnesota Nice.
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| Corn to the left of me, soybeans to the right... that's been the scene for the last 200 miles |
I won't spend a lot of time on what we have seen in the last few days. Its farm country, so we have seen miles and miles of corn, soybeans, the occasional field of sugar beets and hog houses. The weather has been in the high 80's to low 90s and the humidity around 70%, so I am sweating like a pig myself. I'm probably drinking 2-3 liters of water/Gatorade a day.
Now, back to my bike. About a week ago, it started making a creaking noise coming from the pedal cranks. It became progressively louder and more frequent. It was so loud not only did it bug me no end, but anybody around me. I finally found the source of the creaking was the bottom bracket (the mounting system for the bearings that the pedal crank goes through) was working its way out of the bike frame. I am not quite sure how this happened but it looks like a spacer that was in the mounting had fallen out at some point allowing the pressed in bearing assembly to work its way out. Last fall this bike fell off a bike rack going 70 miles an hour on the highway. There was some damage the the front and rear derailleurs that I replace, but I may have missed the damage to the bottom bracket. Anyway, I wasn't going risk trying to get it fixed in one day and then move on, so I just bought a whole bike. I am excited to have electronic shifting for the first time!
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| My new Salsa Cutthroat 1x12 with electronic shifting |
We are now down to 4 weeks left in the trip. The next couple of weeks have some long miles and not great camping locations, some with no showers available. A couple of camping locations don't have opportunity for a motels without a 2-8 mile additional bike ride. Our wonderful tour company won't deliver bags to a hotel... period. Back in Huron, SD, I bought a bigger backpack so that I can ride to a motel several miles away if needed carrying enough clothes for the next day and I have already used it a couple of times.
I am no fan of camping in hot muggy weather, especially after riding 65-80 miles without a shower. The tour operators could use a little Minnesota Nice, but I don't see that happening. Some of the end points for rides seem to be very poor choices where there are limited facilities. Several of us have looked at the routes and just can't seem to find any logic in why we stopped where we did when a little route adjustment would have put us in a better location for services.
I haven't talked to anyone on the trip that would ever recommend these guys. Planning a cross country trip is not easy. I did it for our trip in 2013. Some of this just wasn't well thought out in view of the clientele. We are all over 60, mostly well over 60 and sweating out it out in a primitive camp site when you really don't have too is not high on anyone's list of things to do.
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| XC50 Ride Route up to Minneapolis, MN |
| The Needles area of the Black Hills |
A group of us went "off route" on our way from Hill City to Rapid City, SD. Myles knew about a ride up to the Needles area of the Black Hill where there are some really neat rock formations and some tunnels carved through the rock. I plotted out the course on Ride With GPS and distributed it to the group. It added about 15 miles to our ride, but it was well worth it. The rock formations in the area are really interesting. The tour company isn't overly excited about us doing this and won't support us, but we are all experienced riders and with a group of 5 there wasn't much to worry about.
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| Needles Eye Tunnel |
The next few days were a mix of thunderstorms at night and heavy cross winds during the day. It made for some tough rides ranging from 58-75 miles long.
One of the most interesting of these was riding into Interior, SD. It had been a pretty hard ride of 75 miles with 15-20 mile per hour cross winds and a group of us had stopped at Lulu's Bar in Interior (pop about 80) for a beer before heading to our campsite at the local KOA about 4 miles out of town. We received a group text from the tour company owner that we would NOT be staying at the KOA, but with no destination listed. A few minutes later I received a phone call from John (one of the riders) and he said we had been kicked out of the KOA for some dispute with the KOA owner. John had independently booked a cabin at the KOA and he was welcome to stay, but his clothes were in the van with the tour owner who had already left him stranded there.
John is a very savvy business man and had called the KOA owner and explained the situation of the 12 riders who were in route to the KOA and that he couldn't explain the tour owners behavior. He smoothed things over so that the we could all stay there as long as the tour owner didn't set foot back on the property.
I was getting play-by-play updates from John while I was at the bar and relaying the situation to the group. We were discussing the possibility of spending the night on the floor at the bar. What a mess. Long story short, the group was allowed into the KOA (less the tour owner) and unknown to us at the time, our sole remaining guide, Susan had become ill and didn't join us either. So Arlen, the tour company director and husband of the own and Hank, the cook had to deal with all of the camp issues that night, including cooking dinner. In typical fashion for this trip, there was no explanation from the tour company, but group pretty much had all the details we needed from John.
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| The storm missed us (in more ways than one) at the Interior KOA, but we did get a nice rainbow |
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| Myles riding through Badlands National Park |
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| Improvised tennis shoe drying rack |
The humidity was high as we rode 68 miles to 1880 Town, an old movie set for Dancing with Wolves and another KOA campground. Jocelyn had reserved a cabin at the KOA with an air conditioner which she graciously shared with her 2 riding partners Sheri and Dorothy (the Amigas) and me. I squeezed my camping cot into the small cabin and enjoyed the AC.
We had a rude awakening at 4:30 AM when all the cell phones went off with a Severe Storm Warning. We were all watching the weather radar on our phones as we saw the majority of the storm passing to our west with reports of 80 mph winds. We only got about an hour's worth of rain, but everybody was up, so we had yet another breakfast of oatmeal, packed up and headed out.
The storm cleared out and it turned into a hot, very muggy day. The planned route was to cross the Missouri River to Ft Thompson then ride on another 25 miles to be shuttled back to a campground at the MO river. It was so muggy, I literally rang water out of my shirt after riding 33 miles to Ft Stockton's Indian casino. Several of us called it a day, had lunch at the casino and got rooms at the nearby motel to enjoy the air conditioning.
After hauling our bags back to the campsite on the river (tour company won't pick us up at the hotel even through it is on the way) to get our daily helping of oatmeal. We were shuttled to where the group had finished up their ride the day before. It turned out to be the nicest day of riding all week. A light tailwind, temperatures in the low 80's and not much humidity. It was a pretty quick and enjoyable 61 mile ride to Huron, SD and our rest day.
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| Our "mobile" kitchen... I wouldn't take this trailer on a 3 day Boy Scout camping trip. |
As you can see, it is a major task to just unload all this stuff just so Hank can use the standard kitchen stove that is buried in all that stuff. There is no refrigeration for food storage, thus all the ice chests which leak on the baggage stored in the front half of the trailer. We need a food truck! Hank can't wait for this adventure to be over.
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| Getting ready to cook dinner. I will say the owner has brought some organization to the 6 ice chests so they can usually find what they are looking for. |
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| Progress as of July 1, 2026 |
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| Long, lonely stretches of highway in eastern Wyoming |
We left Yellowstone National Park 8 days ago and made our way across the state of Wyoming and into the Black Hills of western South Dakota. The past few days we have been around and near thunderstorms during the day, but luckily we haven't been rained on while we are riding. We have had rain a couple of nights. Once in Gillette,WY where I opted to share a room with Chuck and again in Spearfish, SD where the 3 Amigas had rented a cabin in the KOA and had a spare top bunk that they graciously shared with me. In general, if it looks like rain, the group starts looking for other options than the tent. Even though we are all getting faster at setting up and tearing down camp, after 4 weeks, it is getting a little old.
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| Riding into the fog between Gillette and Devils Tower |
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| Coming up on Devil's Tower... it looks like there could be an alien spaceship hiding in that cloud |
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| Devil's Tower... I did not Photoshop or AI generate the buffalo I have been asked that question. I had to keep moving up the hill to keep them in the photo. |
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| We did have some nice weather as we rode up Spearfish Canyon into the Black Hills. 2 hours later we were all freezing! |
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| Myles and Susan dressed for winter 3 hours later on the Michelson Trail |
Several of us rode about 30 miles of the Mickelson Trail after riding up Spearfish Canyon and we only hit some minor road construction. Another group wanted to start the trail in Deadwood at the trail head. However, they hit road construction and a detour which delayed them at least an hour. I was really glad the I did the Spearfish Canyon route. It was really scenic. Beth and I had ridden from Deadwood to Custer several years ago on the Mickelson Trail and didn't feel the need to do that section again.
So now we are off into the Badlands and corn country of South Dakota. The rainy weather is still in the for cast for tomorrow with a scheduled short ride of 38 miles into Rapid City. The possibility of rain is in the forecast for the next several days. We'll just deal with it. Myles and I are considering going off route tomorrow to see the Needles Eye Tunnel. It looks pretty interesting, but will add about 15 miles to our ride.
The group of riders is doing well and has jelled into a really good group to be with. We continue to make it from point A to point B every day and get fed on a regular basis, but the amount of work it takes for the tour operators is overly high. It is a self inflicted problem and any suggestion to try to minimize the effort goes without recognition. So we are pretty much doing our own thing when we feel like it. Most of the group has little concern about cost, so that makes it a whole lot easier when we decide to opt for lunch or dinner on our own or booking a hotel when we want.
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| Progress so far |
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| View across Yellowstone Lake as we left Grants Village Lodge |
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| View of Sylvan Lake just before descending nearly 3000 feet in about 25 miles |
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| View of the Shoshone River Canyon after dropping about 2000' feet |
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| Glen and me outside the Burlington Place Bar in Burlington, WY ... Population 320 |
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| Ten Sleep, WY. Population 240 |
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| Ten Sleep Creek Canyon |
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| Me and the 3 Amigas at Power River Pass (my roommates in West Yellowstone) |
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| Downtown Buffalo - Occidental Hotel & Bar in the background |
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| The Occidental Hotel Bar |
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| Chuck on the way out of Wisdom, MT |
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| Fly fishing in the Madison River south of Ennis |
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| Earthquake Lake just northwest of West Yellowstone, MT |
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| Herd of elk early after entering Yellowstone |
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| Bison along the road |
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| Old Faithful was right on time |
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| Firehole River |
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| Jocelyn, me, Julie and John. Julie, John's wife, joined us in West Yellowstone and rented a monster ebike to ride with us through the park to Cody, WY |
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| Clothes drying and bike maintenance. More clothes lines in the trees. |